Kuraya

Aromatic smoke drifts from the charcoal grill at Kuraya, where skewers are cooked slowly to order while anticipation builds. Chicken skin arrives crisped on the exterior and tender within, handmade tare meatballs are packed with savoury richness, and springy kokoro (hearts) emerge alongside other comfortably sized cuts fresh from the coals. The lively crunch of gizzard, lifted by salt, contrasts with skewers of hasami, alternating scallion and chicken finished in tare, each highlighting its ingredient's distinct character.

Beyond standard chicken cuts and offal, Kuraya stands out for its extensive range of vegetable and rolled skewers. These include shiso-wrapped chicken served with plum-miso sauce, cherry tomatoes wrapped in meat, king oyster mushrooms rolled in pork, and pork skewers layered with aromatic shiso leaves, each balancing vegetable freshness against rich savoury fat. Equally well-received alongside the skewers is thick tofu toasted over the coals, its charcoal-kissed surface giving way to a soft, fluffy centre dressed with sliced scallions, grated ginger, and soy sauce.

Draft beer poured with fine head and regional sakes pair easily with small dishes like yubiki (blanched chicken skin) and potato salad before turning to the evening's final course. Options include chazuke featuring a carefully grilled rice ball immersed in chicken broth, fragrant dried seaweed, and fleshy pickled plum, as well as comforting bowls of ramen in deep chicken broth, rounding out the meal on a warm, restorative note.